A crisp but windy December day sees me disembarking from the Aberdeen Hillwalkers bus on the moray firth at Buckie, for a coastal route heading east to Cullen. I’ll be running today, to fit in some extra exploration and diversions along the way.
Starting past Cluny HarbourAlong the coastal road a remnant of war time built in to a rock faceMany of the cottages and older buildings along the road have a quaint pastel-block lookBeyond the outer reaches of Buckie
At the outer limits of Buckie, there’s a path heading along the coast so I diverge to that rather than stay on the fairly busy road
Outside ‘Bijou by the sea’ cafeDidn’t see any seals today on the rocky outcrop, a fairly rough sea today thoughA stiff breeze lashing waves off the rocksIn a sheltered alcove, sea foam has built upAfter rumbling over rocks n pebbles, I run out of beach as the tide is pretty high
With the tide out you could probably stick to the water all the way along, but today will require ducking up and down through nooks in the cliffs
Aha another way down and aroundAcross a wee bridge spanning an inlet of frenzied white waterA natural ampitheatre provides a sheltered nook for a game of fitbaRockface on an outcrop coming into Findochty has become a totemEntering Findochty, a fitting symbol for a seafaring toon
Findochty (pronounced Fin-eck-tay) is one of many small villages clinging to the shoreline along the Moray coast
Outer wall taking the brunt of the wavesThe White Manny, by local artist, Correna Cowie A popular harbour for leisure boatsA look down some of the winding streets beside the harbour, also sporting the pastel brick patchworksA small hill overlooks the bayEast end o FindochtyThe sea is a cruel mistress. One is never far from a reminder in these sea faring townsOnwards east from FindochtyA cormorant rests above the cliffs
I headed onwards east from the town, back on the good path of the Moray Coast Trail, which climbs high above cliffs. The OS map indicated caves peppered along the next stretch so I kept an eye open for gulleys and easy hillsides to descend for a nosey
Cycle route signGorse pupilA squishy gap, part burn, part animal track, heads downFlattens out to a craggy bayThe stone foreshore roars and hisses as deep surges push shoals of pebblesThe local wildlife rest up
At Tronach head which juts out, a scrubby slope allows access down.
Heading downQuick look, only goes in a few metresAnother small gap.. in for a lookOpens up a fair bit insideOut we goAnother pebbley cove. Tide height prevents further exploration west to more caves around the cornerI notice this succulent looking plant – scurvy grass. High in vitamins but a quick nibble (eesht very bitter mustardy taste) persuades me to stay un-nourished from this sourceThe sea thunders round the rocksAnother few corners takes me into PortknockieA happy painted roofA substantial natural crag protects the harbourThe man made extension taking the bruntOn the path heading east 2 tapestry fishesA high promontory with a flattened area used to be a fort, first of a few informative signs along the pathSecond sign about more of the shoreNext up is the local landmark, a large sea archBow Fiddle Rock is a substantial chunk, larger than I remember from many years ago. Today’s conditions not ideal for a decent photoCrank the exposure time up a bitWithout a tripod or ND filter as best as I can do
I spend a bit of time exploring the shore near Bow Fiddle rock looking for a good angle for a decent shot, but the rough seas, high tide and strong wind make it difficult. A wider angle lens would be good here
A nearby tunnel almost geiger-esque smoothed black rocks. Careful footing required as the swells rush in and outHeading on, past ‘whales mouth’Winding back down to the shore. The last section of craggy bits before the flat shore of CullenThe path disappears into a jumble of rocks, splashed by waves.. I watch for a bit to time a passage.. wouldn’t fancy a dook todayCullen coming into view in the distancepast Jenny’s wellPast some cliffs which are popular with climbers. Who was St. Duane?His den seems popular with the local kids, judging by the bonfire and drinking litterA closer lookA look out the sideAnd the frontWhat Duane sawClear of the crags, a golf course marks the outer perimeter of Cullen. A large sandstone shard and an outlying cock-jobby obelisk act as a hazard. There’s some blocked off gates into the rock, perhaps unsafe cavesThis would be a pleasant beach on a summer’s dayA fine old railway (now path) viaduct spans the riverI stop for a snack and a coffee at this groovy wee trailer ‘Coffee at the Kings‘ perfectly timed as I’m beginning to flag. Delicious stuff. The Kings – refers to the ‘3 kings’ 3 rock stacks protruding from the beachWeathered tree stump deposited by a storm of the pastA quick pano of the bridge and time to get running againWith time to kill before the walkers catch up I’ll be heading upstreamClimbed on to the viaduct, good viewOn the other side of the road below, I can see a folly marked as ‘temple’ on the map: Temple of Pomona. Due to the steep roadside, not easy to get to, so I pass on a closer look todayOver the bridgeCullenBridge buddyLast view of the sea for a while, heading inlandCross the Burn of Cullen and various side-streamsAt Claypot’s bridge I diverge from the burn and make down tree lined lanesThe ‘Cullen House Home farm‘ is an interesting buildingPart old and part newAnother fine tree-lined laneCullen House. Converted into private dwellings, there’s various ‘geroffmoi land’ type notices to dissuade us peasants from approaching closerNonetheless with no hoity-toitys in view, and not wearing anything too lurdily coloured, I stealth over a wall to join a path leading into the undergrowth, first affording a view of the fine bridgeThe path winds along the top of the burn, overgrown in places, past a quaint little bridgeOld stone, moss, fallen leaves, still water. Lovely.Tempted further upstream, I happen across this remarkable structure from 1863, a cast iron bridgeThe aged iron blends nicely with natureRunning low on time, that’s as far south as I make it, back through some nice woods, then past the other side of the house. There’s an old graveyard/kirk but out of time to give it an explore
Leaving the estate along a long entry gallery, I entered Cullen (which moved from it’s origins beside the house, to beside the sea).
Looking down to the harbourSome sort of lighthouse monument
A rummage of oddities outside a shop catches my eye, and instead of seeking the pub I am lured inside Cullen Collectibles where I end up buying a bag full of bric-a-brac. Not often I go home with more stuff than I came with. Rounded off a good day out with a lot more variety than your normal coastal path
