My previous overnight trip had been back in March, the day before lockdown, when I’d stayed in a snow cave. Covid summer had discouraged me from camping but I was determined to do something while the weather held. A planned trip to the cairngorms was botched by missing an early morning alarm, but I could retrieve the day by travelling somewhere closer; a hasty scramble to hop on a train had me out in Inverurie, with a cunning idea.
Back roads towards bennachie
I took the folding bike (I’d maybe not return on the Inveruruie train but possibly a bus) and headed out. After some sunny backroads, I briefly stopped at a hotspot of old and new stonework
Rear side of the maiden stoneOver 1000 years oldnearby statue of persephone from the 1960s
I’d seen a discussion on a facebook photography group around the maiden stone – I’d suggested the Persephone statue as worth a look nearby – another local chipped in and stated there were more sculptural points of interest nearby, although a search of the web offered no information. He’d supplied a rough map, so I set off to investigate.
The first was at the top of the hill of knockollochie, and the most direct route would be to go up the drive of Crowmallie house, a big mansion, but big mansions often have snooty grumpies; I thought a more tactical approach better. A road to the west of the hill had a scrape of a track in a tree belt between two overgrown fields, I dumped the bike and headed into the woods, and then as the ground steepened headed uphill, having to thrash through a lot of bracken (which as I found on the way back could be avoided further east)
Bracken thrashing up the hill
It’s a small hill covered with trees except a small opening at the top. Strange shadows loomed high against the trees, I had found my prize. These are “3 Celtic Kings” by the same sculptor as Persephone – Sean Crampton.
Strange shapes aloft the hilltop
An impressive abstract work in a fantastic surrounding, albeit perhaps neglected. I noticed that Crowmallie house was for sale; perhaps the owners had moved or passed on, and the estate was left to fend for itself.
Three Celtic Kings – Sean Crampton Iron and concrete
I went for a wander to the foot of the hill, finding an old trail and an underpass for the railway that might also be a worthwhile way in to go look.
An old path near the railwayRailway underpass beside the A96Back through the woodsA cosy kitchen once cooked country fair, now only an echo of bygone times lost in the trees
First exploration complete, onwards to tonight’s residence – up on Bennachie
Sweat and low sunlight adorn these slabsWinding upwards from RowantreeAutumn beginning to colour the stunted pinesHosie’s Well, today muddied, probably by dogsParking up at CraigshannochExploring crannies....and nooks
I bumped in to an old mate out for a stroll and showed him the cave where I’d be sleeping (he probably thought me a bit mad) after dumping my kit, to kill time before nightfall I decided to go for a run around the top of the hill.
Time to chase the sunset and go for a runFirst stop Oxen Craig, the highest point on BennachieOver to the main (though not highest) top, Mither TapRound the side for a clamberJust in time sun away to setHeading back through the fortificationsBack at CraigshannochThe ‘cosy’ abode for the night, Harthill’s caveView from inside. Foil sheet deployed as ground sheet, a bit muddyHarthill was apparently fond of a drink, he’d have liked this alePtch of some unusual flat leaved primitive-looking plantNight view 2020, above an emulation of a less light-speckled view back in the day
Fair to say, not the most comfortable night’s sleep ever; the floor shape isn’t quite flat. Having said that it was roaring with wind outside and was well sheltered from that.
A chilly sunrise approaching. Looking a bit cloudy to be a good oneClearing as I head over to Oxen CraigSun’s upPastel hues breaking through the clouds against the dark lump of Mither TapStopped to soak it up. A great panoramaback on the move bumping down the last part of the Gordon wayIt gets pretty lumpy. This would normally be too busy to consider cycling down. Today, only limited occasionally by the smaller-diameter wheels of the airnimal rhinoBack on to smooth path and whizzing through the treesHeading west across a bridge across the DonAutumn morning country roadQuite a feat of topiary beside the entrance to Paradise WoodsA bright and unexpected shape in the land adjoining the pathBeautifully restored carriageAnother shape catches my eye in the foliage towards the riverA quick explore along the mill’s water channelSome very large and fine old trees hereSmall wheels meet big trunkThe Don running clear. Looks troutyThe path fizzling out to a scrapeEnding in a field. Signs of passage further, but as far as I go here todayA fine stand of trees on the far bankIn the shade, the valley holds the chill. Freezing fog lies on the waterI love a trail with KomorebiThese trees have rested their bows, freed of leaves, through many autumnsPitfichie castle lit by the morning sunFields are usually square or round, but here are square and round.
I headed back east, next stop the impressive ruin of Fetternear house but found some distractions on the way
I can’t resist a tree lined path offshoot. It climbs up a hill.. to a fine kirkkirk plaqueA nosey around some old outbuildings and walls, now crumblingOh Fuck off. And fuck off some more. The direct route and a fine looking track blocked by some pompous cunt. It’s one thing locking a gate, another creating a military-style barbed-wire eyesore. What a poisonous cunt lies somewhere beyond this gate.A stylish old farmhouse. It looks abandoned, but on approaching there is activity, still occupiedRound about route to the ruined mansionInteresting sign. The track to Burnhervie looks nice. May have to returnFettercairn House. A fine ruin16931891Somebody around here doesn’t like access
Normally I’d have went in for a nosey whether welcome or not, but the surrounding field has sheep and there was nowhere to hide the bike nearby, plus I couldn’t be arsed having a barney with “Mr Barbed Wire” if seen.
Festooned with indignant and obtuse resentment. Probably the same grumpy arsehole that did the gate. The surrounding area reeks of puffed-up ‘horse & rangerover’ snooty-rah-rahsBack at the Burnhervie track. A good choice. Leafy and lush
Beside the main track a few side paths tempted me to meander.
Some unmapped offshoot paths exploredI randomise along a windy one heading downhill. It’s sweetOut at the main track. Old stairs show this was once a more formal pathBack on the main track
At the end of the track a footbridge spans the Don
The Shakin’ BriggieDoes it shake? No, actually very solid. It’s predecessor decades back was likely a more fragile structure.
At Burnhervie I was back on tarmac for a few km, intending to head up to see East Aquhorthies stone circle, but came across another locked gate with some bullshit about health & safety, there was a farmer nearby so again couldn’t be arsed with an argument, but one I’ll likely report to the access officer. Having to reroute, I passed some woods near Newbigging and found an unmapped track and was lured in
Another tempting trailUhm what. Some signs presumably for shooting folk
Now on the last stretch, maybe 5km to go to get back to Inverurie. Still a few things to see.
Back at Chapel of GariochBalquhain Castle – only a shell of 2 walls remainsBalquhain stone circle amid a field. At least I get to see one circle, albeit from a distanceHandy underpass under the A96Drimmies pictish symbol stone beside a nearby farm gate
Heading in to Inverurie, and feeling pretty dehydrated having ran out of water ages ago (won’t forget my water filter again) and also famished I stopped at Edwards for a meal and a drink (nice wee place) before the train home.
